To use: make a hexagon, the corners of a square, vertical line or an isosceles triangle to find the “best” colors to coordinate with a particular kimono color, according to the traditional Japanese schools of color.
Kamakura era mo-bakama with motif of "mizu katawaguruma", which according to the kimono site Ichiroya are the "wheels of royal cart, which are stored in stream to avoid drying". http://www.ichiroya.com/item/list2/226530/ The wheels look like the ones from the ox-drawn carts used by royals in the Heian era... This items' page doesn't say what type of textile art is used, but it looks dyed to me (as opposed to woven.) 社団法人 京都染織文化協会/染織祭衣装
This magnificent two-volume study brings together the leading experts on textiles from eight countries, ensuring authoritative coverage of the production and uses of textiles in western societies from the earliest times to the present day.