This photo is phenomenal! The waves are high, and he is riding it like nothing. It looks easy but can be dangerous and hard to practice. This photograph was taking at the moment. Nobody can take that feeling away.
Rent a soft surfboard your very first time out. Don't invest in your own surf board if you've never ever attempted surfing before. At a lot of beaches helpful for surfing, rental areas will be offered near to the beach, offering reasonably inexpensive.